win, place, or show, but definitely drink
the place: drink, 348 congress st, fort point
the date: saturday, 05.02.09
the plan: derby party
it is harder than you might think to find a good way to celebrate the kentucky derby in boston. ryan is from kentucky, and I have another good friend from louisville, so I’ve gotten used to celebrating the occasion with bourbon, hats (or talk of hats), arbitrary betting, and when possible, pie that is not called “derby pie” because that’s copyrighted. but this year, no one was throwing a party, so we had to find a bar. and the first place that we came across on the internets was drink. I’d been wanting to try the new bar with the “no menu/tell us how you feel” gimick anyway and this seemed like as good a reason as any. plus, they definitely seemed the kind of place that would know it’s bourbon. so, for $40, we got 3 drinks, apps, a souvenir glass, and the chance to look at ladies in funny hats.
in case you were unaware, there’s a very large sign outside the sportello/drink complex announcing that you are entering the rareified air of barbara lynch. I mean, I like her stuff, I do. and she just deservedly won a fancy award and I like the move into fort point. but really? the celebrity chef thing taken to the point of advertising yourself outside your restaurants seems somewhat off-putting to me. so, that complaint aside, let’s move on. there’s no sign for drink, just a small placard at the entrance to sportello, which seemed a bit irritating at the time, but which I’ve subsequently decided is actually enjoyably speak-easyish. the bar is in the basement and they don’t try to hide it. the bars are wide and wooden, the entire thing reminiscent of a high school chem lab that someone turned into an awesome bar. it’s a cool theme that doesn’t seem overly theme-y, if that makes any sense?
we were greeted at the door by a manager (who I swear I know from somewhere, but never followed up to find out) wearing a fantastic seabiscut-esque derby outfit who explained the party set-up. there were three drink stations— old fashioneds, mint juleps, and horse’s necks. we each recieved a gorgeous drink ticket for one of each and a souvenir julep glass commemorating a previous derby. those glasses can be hard to track down, so it was clear from the get-go that they had put in some effort. because we had come directly from an afternoon showing of wolverine (yes, we wore our derby finery to watch hugh jackman tear things up with his claws. let me tell you that the outfite that can go from a matinee of a summer blockbuster to a classy derby party and fit in at both does not exist) we were early and grabbed a seat at the old-fashioned station next to an older gentleman who chatted with ryan about bourbon.
drinks, of course: the bartender was as jauntily decked-out as the manager was pleasantly cheerful. he was chipping his ice off a large block which apparently is brought in from a pond in the ‘burbs somewhere. it was an interesting story at the time, I swear, but I’ve forgotten the details now. I am not usually a drinker of bourbon and whiskey, especially not as close-to-straight as it comes in an old-fashioned, but I will not lie, I was very very taken with that drink. I was surprised that it was my favorite of the evening. the ice waters it down just barely over the course of the sipping, the sugar and the bitters add a touch of flavor and the whiskey was incredibly smooth. next we got the horse’s neck and I’ve never turned my nose up at whiskey and ginger, so this combo of bourbon, gingerale, and lemon was well-recieved. my secret derby shame, of course, is that I don’t like mint juleps. I want to like them, I do. they look like a grown-up boozy snow cone. they have mint and sugar. but. I just can’t enjoy them. I forced my way through half of it, then added in some water and really pressed the mint in and managed to actually find the last half of the drink pleasant. still, I was happy to let ryan drink most of mine.
to start: hors d’oeurves were part of the price of admission and everything I ate was great. I’m not sure that drink actually has food service normally, but wherever the food came from, I was happy to sample it all. fried pickles and peanuts boiled with hamhock started off the southern treats. the pickles were sliced a bit too thin and so tasted greasy and bready— ryan swore they weren’t a good example of the fried pickle. the boiled peanuts tasted like ham. I was happy. that’s really all it takes, people. next were mini-ham sandwiches on herbed corn bread. I will not publically admit how many of these I ate, but they were phenom. I want to eat these every day. seriously. what I believe to be shrimp dip (not because of the taste, but the color and the southern-ness) with celery was tasty enough and the last food item delivered to our spot at the bar were pork ribs, which ryan and the others we met over the course of the evening all seemed to enjoy.
overall, I was thoroughly impressed with the bar itself and the event. so many funny hats! though, I really don’t understand why you would go to an event like this and not dress up at least a little. I definitely did not enjoy seeing the jeans-and-t-shirt people lurking among the spring dresses and seersucker jackets. also, while I like the bar-without-a-tv idea for general evening visitation, for a horse race, I would have preferred to see the event, especiall because the sound on the audio feed was less-than-awesome. I would definitely be curious to go back on a regular night and try out the gimmick and also see how the space works for an evening crowd— I couldn’t quite picture what it would look like. I think I can recommend the bar based on the even, but I can definitely recommend any event they put on— they definitely think it out and do it right. two tips for you, though, whether you go on a regular night or for an event— if you’re there for a while, you might want to stand rather than sit on the stools; they were not that comfy. and two, if you’re walking up to the bar, don’t stop on the sidewalk to adjust your outfit in any way because everyone in the bar is looking right at you through the street-level windows. follow that advice and think carefully about how you’re feeling before you head in and you should have a good time at this barbara lynch booze-fest.